After being informed on August 12 that my transit through the Russian Arctic, and hence my solo Arctic circumnavigation, was no longer possible because the NSRA determined that ice and weather conditions were too difficult and dangerous for small boats, I started looking for a weather window to return to the US East Coast.
I waited until August 16 for that window. After motoring from Hammerfest to the open ocean, I was met with strong winds out of the north, much stronger than forecast, with attendant high seas. It was a fast but rough 3 – 4 days of sailing. Arriving east of Iceland, things only got worse with now upwind sailing conditions, with variable wind directions, as I tried to work my way south and west around the southern side of Iceland. The winds finally rotated to the south but for 12 hours I was on a very rough beam reach with 30+ kt winds and 3 to 4 meter seas. Very rolly, heeled over conditions. Three reefs in the sails. Some of the roughest sailng I can recall.
I’m past Iceland now in lighter winds and seas, on a route largely southwest toward Newfoundland, my target landfall. I don’t know if I’ll stop there, but perhaps move on to Lunenburg, Nova Scotia, for a rest stop instead. I’ve never been to Nova Scotia.
There’s a big low pressure system looming in the forecast between Newfoundland and my current position, several days off. Hopefully it will dissipate or I can work my way around it without too much drama.
The photos are of Iceland as I sailed by along the south side, taken on one of the very few blue sky days I’ve had on this entire voyage into the Arctic.

